A simple $ 3 Ray cheese pizza is better than pretentious pies

Reyes’ famous original pizza still reigns supreme – no matter what pizza snobs say. As its Crown logo states, the local chain, which has three locations in Manhattan, is the king of pies, the host of all street food in New York.

The big apple is full of fancy pizzerias, like Una Pizza Napoletana, which has just reopened to a hype blizzard on the Lower East Side after a two-year hiatus. “Big cheese lovers” and celebrities drowned the place on Orchard Street at its launch, a Friday page reported.

I wonder how many came to the tasting menu for $ 750 for four. Pizza tasting menu? Well, Una Pizza Napoletana’s dough is “naturally sour!

For me, the Ray of the Good rules. His sticky, cheesy, messy $ 3.50 slice laughs at more expensive pretentious mutations.

Reyes has three locations in Manhattan, including one in Times Square.
Zach Feldman / NY Post

Sure, that’s the ass of jokes. “Seinfeld” and “Alef” mocked its twisted history and the dozens of joints that snatched the name “Reyes”, all claiming to be the real thing.

And yes, I almost feel guilty for declaring my love for Ray’s “regular cheese” slice. Its ingredients are the culinary blasphemy in today’s all-artistic environment. The dough does not pretend to be a natural leaven for three weeks in a temperature-controlled room with certificate films of Mozart and Teva. The sauce is not made from state-of-the-art tomatoes with homes in California and southern Italy. The Parmesan cheese – the only cheese in the entry slice – does not have a captivating original story, nor does the basic olive oil and garlic that complete the simple list of ingredients. (I have no use for peppers, pepperoni or pineapple, thanks).

The primitive pie is not burned on charcoal or wood but baked in a commercial gas oven. Reyes has no affiliation with higher-level pizza-learning institutions like the Pizza Academy Foundation, “the elite Italian government body that teaches the 300-year-old art of Neapolitan pizza-making,” to which Casta is proud to belong.

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Ray’s membrane is designed for walking – the perfect street food of New York.
Zach Feldman / NY Post

But nothing gives me pleasure like a hot slice of ray dripping from the oven. I never liked the Sicilian-style square article, which is often a crust-breaking exercise. I do not need the hot honey drizzle of Pauli Gi, the bottom of Two Boots cornmeal or the artichoke basil dipping dish pretending to be pizza.

My first defeat in Ray’s triple slice is a taste of heaven. Its elements, which I season with light twists of nameless garlic powder, oregano flakes and red pepper, merge into an orgasmic burst of pleasure every time. No other mouthfeel is equal. The membrane is designed for walking – flexible to fold after the first bites but strong enough not to let everything drip onto the sidewalk. This is a much better street food than boiled sausages or tacos that turn into cardboard as soon as you take out something inside that is worth eating.

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Ray’s simple cheese slices.
Zach Feldman / NY Post

My Ray’s enthusiasm can hurt “serious” cake pursuers. They want “authenticity” even though the Italians are endlessly quarreling over what it means. They want furnaces made of volcanic salt, sand and fast-moving rock. They demand “artistic” flour, 00 from the north of the country; Tomatoes from San Marzano; And cheeses from far corners of Italy.

They chase after any mutant form – “Chicago-style,” Detroit-style caramelized, Midwestern (whatever that means) and even Canadian (maple syrup, if you ask).

And the fancy optics! See the blister-covered membrane of Motorino! See the terrifying chill of a green basil rubiroza they call “Tie-Dye!”

It’s spring. This is Ray’s season. I can not wait for my next bubbling and crackling slice to devour on the lush sidewalk. And poi on pretentious pretenders to the throne.

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Cuozzo marks the Ray restaurant over a more pretentious pizza.
Billy Basra / New York Post

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