Said former Brooklyn borough president Marty Markowitz To absorb The egg cream, a vibrant blend of milk, syrup and salt, “has been Brooklyn’s official drug since the 1920s.” This is a real statement for an ancient soda fountain drink, which rarely makes its way to newer menus – or at least not as frequently as expensive air conditioners, oatmeal latte or $ 17 glasses of natural Georgia wines.
I’m really half inclined to suggest that the current mayor of the city present tax incentives so that new guard places will have some motivation to keep this New York signature alive and relevant. However, for now, I’m quite enthusiastic about the egg cream on Aggie’s counter at Crown Heights, a restaurant and bakery from Central Europe with a Jewish tendency that chained the treat with coffee – along with some unusual ingredients.
Let us clarify one thing in this context: the egg cream, which he believes originates in Jewish communities living in Brooklyn and the Lower East Side, is almost universally free of neither eggs nor cream. Agi’s, on the other hand, finds a way to use not only egg but also cream – of sorts.
“When I was younger and would stay with my grandmother Aggie, she would always put chocolate egg cream in my hand as soon as I walked in the door,” chef Jeremy Salmon tells me. Salmon, on the other hand, avoided the traditional vanilla or chocolate varieties – often made with Fox’s U-Bet syrup – for an option that contained more caffeine.
“We wanted a way to recycle the coffee leftovers at the end of the day so we reduced it to syrup and added it to the egg cream,” says Salmon. A few more unexpected ingredients enter the mix, including “whipped egg yolk cream” made from instant espresso, vanilla, egg yolks and wonderfully concentrated milk – a recipe that the owner attributes to sous chef Sarah Pagan. A staff member vigorously mixes the drink in a stronger glass than thin or tall. This glass contains ice, which some would say belongs to egg cream like ketchup belongs to caviar or as soft serving belongs to pizza.
Salmon says it uses ice to dilute the sweetness of the drink and to ensure proper cooling. As someone who used to drink their weight in egg creams grown on Long Island – never with ice – I can say without hesitation that the supplement does not harm even a little of this masterpiece. In fact it makes the drink more decisively refreshing. Agi’s egg cream is close to perfect, boasting a cool sweetness, a shake of coffee, delicate creaminess and fermentation so noticeable that one almost wonders if anyone has exaggerated all the ingredients together. A layer of milky foam sits on top, properly. Cost: $ 8.
Agi’s also serves a collection of fine Austro-Hungarian pastries, a fact worth emphasizing in a city where modern sweet shops usually adhere to a more French or Italian ethos. Pastry chef Rene Hudson makes a very good linseed tortilla ($ 10) on Fridays only, using a hazelnut crust, a bit of frangipani and a touch of seasonal jam (currently lemon). The texture of the tortilla is pleasantly coarse, serves as a background with a beautiful texture for the almond spread and the fragrant lemons.
Even better is the traditional Hungarian gerbao ($ 5): hand-rolled layers of walnuts and apricot jam between thin layers of yeast cake. Hudson coats the dessert with chocolate ganache and slices each dish into rectangles that are no larger than a deck of cards. The confectionery is partly reminiscent of the textures and flavors of your good habit; It has a hint of chewing and a roll of nutty fruitiness. In fact, if the apricot had been stronger, the sock could probably have been turned into a fragrant candle. Then the chocolate and sea salt appear to soothe the clarity.
Would these two pastries ideally accompany a cup of hot coffee? Sure, Waggy’s covers you up on this front. But it is impossible not to order egg cream every time it appears on the menu. If you were to tell me that an elegant omcaz sushi came with a $ 25 pair of sake junk food junkies or a $ 200 pair of 10 different egg creams, I would opt for a pair of egg creams each time. That’s what New York will do.
So guess what? I rate the egg cream at Agi’s, along with Hudson’s pastries, as BUY. And for those who want something more substantial; Agi’s dinner service only started on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays. Unfortunately, egg creams are only available during the day.
Buy, sell, hold It’s a column by Eater New York chief reviewer Ryan Sutton, in which he looks at a dish or item and decides if it’s worth buying, selling it (just do not try it at all), or holding it (give it some time before you try). ).